While we were stuck in Kolkata, unable to fly to Bangkok due to the airport siege and just before terrorists struck in Mumbai, making that area a wholly undesirable place to be, we had made (very loose) plans with a guy we met on our Everest trek that we would meet in Cuttack as England we playing against India in a cricket test match or something that I wasn't much interested in.
Here's Cuttack:
So we booked our beds/seats aboard our sleeper train to Cuttack, leaving at 9 in the evening and arriving in Cuttack some hours after that.
Mike was very ill, so while we waited for our train, he lay on the ground in the railway station, only for railway police to think he was on drugs and shout at him.
We got on our train, here's me on a sleeper train:

and went to sleep, until we arrived in Cuttack, which turned out to be around 3-4 and a most convenient time.
Hotels in India and most of Southern Aisa close in the evening and, unlike Western hotels that have night staff, they pull the shutters down and literally shut up shop.
They have a security guard who is sleeping, as he had worked all day and doesn't expect to be rudely awaken by anyone.
Arriving at the train station, we still managed to find a tuk-tuk driver, who said he'd take us around the town and see if any hotels had any rooms.
We turned up at the first hotel, woke up the night security guard, he immediately and grumpily informed us that they had no room.
The next hotel's security guard revealed the same, as well as the third, forth and fifth.
I forget how many hotels we visited and how many times we drove around Cuttack.
By the umpteenth time we arrived at a hotel, the security guard seemed a teeny bit more encouraging, he asked one of us to go inside and talk. This was a good sign.
Mike went inside to talk while I stayed in the tuk-tuk with my zombiefied eyes.
Mike came out about five minutes later and said they had no room, and we'd just been longed out for a while.
The tuk-tuk driver took us back to the station and told us to wait until 9 to check, as the receptionists might be willing to take new customers.
Mike took offence to the price quoted by the driver, and we thrashed out a price, I was willing to pay what he said because I was beyond tired and not in the mood for a fight, whereas Mike was going a bit mental about it all.
Mike took offence to the price quoted by the driver, and we thrashed out a price, I was willing to pay what he said because I was beyond tired and not in the mood for a fight, whereas Mike was going a bit mental about it all.
We went in and sat at the deserted railway station and read and lay down until 9am.
We came out of the front entrance and found many taxi and tuk-tuk drivers willing to take our custom.
About thirty Indian men all crowding around, shouting at us to get in their cab. The tuk-tuk driver that had taken us before explained that there was no room, and therefore no point, which was the opposite of what he had said when he told us to wait.
So, deflated, we went back into the train station. I sat down and Mike went off to find out when the train back to Kolkata was, he came back as a train pulled into the station and told me that was our train.
We hastened aboard and found ourselves in the economy class, which not wanting to sound snooty, was pretty rough. No air-conditioning, uncomfortable seats, but at least we had a sleeper seat so we could lie down. I slept with my bag as my pillow as I didn't trust many of the people passing through.
I nodded off for a bit and was awoke by an Indian transvestite begging me for money.
Indian men tend not to make the most convincing transvestites:
See..
We managed to arrive back in Kolkata about 18-20 hours after we had left it with nothing but extreme tiredness, immense disappointment and our first, and only, experience with Indian transvestites.
Here was the journey...how depressing





